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Tea dueling, also known as the battle of teas or tea warfare, originated during the Tang Dynasty but reached its pinnacle of popularity in the Song Dynasty. It was a pastime enjoyed by the wealthy and leisurely, imbued with a strong competitive spirit, offering both amusement and challenge.
During the Song Dynasty, a period known for its reverence for the Tea Ceremony, tea appreciation was embraced from the imperial court to the literati. Emperor Huizong of Song Dynasty composed the "Daguan Tea Treatise", Cai Xiang wrote the "Record of Tea", and Huang Ru penned the "Essentials of Tea Tasting". Meanwhile, the cultural elite and literati indulged in the lifestyle of tea dueling, contributing to the flourishing of this tradition.
The optimal time for tea dueling was during the Tomb Sweeping Day, when the first flush of tea leaves emerged. These duels often involved a dozen or so participants, including renowned scholars, tea shop owners, and curious onlookers from the neighborhood, creating a lively atmosphere akin to modern-day sports matches.
Tea duels were typically held in well-established tea shops with spacious front halls for public display and smaller rear rooms equipped with kitchen facilities for tea preparation. Some venues boasted elegant interior spaces, tranquil courtyard gardens adorned with flowers and trees, or scenic waterfront locations, all ideal settings for tea dueling.
Participants in tea dueling would each bring their finest teas, taking turns brewing and tasting, while assessing and comparing flavors to determine superiority. In ancient times, tea leaves were often compressed into tea cakes before being ground into powder, and during duels, participants would consume both the powdered tea and the brewed infusion. Tea dueling could involve multiple participants engaged in a collective duel or pairs engaging in head-to-head "combat," with victory achieved by winning two out of three rounds.
Tea Dueling Activities:
- Tea Tasting Criteria:
In tea tasting, fresh tea is prized, and the water used should be from natural source. The evaluation includes two main aspects: the color of the tea broth and the water marks. First, observe whether the tea broth is bright and pure white; the purer the white, the better. Greenish, grayish, or yellowish-white indicates inferiority. The color of the broth reflects the tea processing skills: pure white signifies plump, tender tea leaves and proper processing; greenish suggests insufficient steaming; grayish means over-steaming; yellowish indicates delayed processing; and reddish suggests over-roasting. Secondly, observe the duration of the froth on the tea surface. In the Song Dynasty, tea was mainly consumed as cake tea, which was roasted, ground, and then boiled. If the tea was ground finely and the brewing technique was precise, the froth would be uniform and cling to the edge of the cup, lasting a long time. This ideal effect is called "Yao Zhan". The process of brewing and frothing the tea involves precise control, where froth is created by whisking the tea with a bamboo whisk. If the froth cannot cling to the cup and dissipates quickly, revealing water marks, it is considered a loss. The timing of the appearance of water marks indicates the quality of the tea broth, with later appearance signifying superiority. Sometimes, even if the tea quality is slightly inferior, proper water usage can secure a win. Therefore, understanding tea characteristics, water quality, and the brewing effects is crucial for successful tea tasting.
- Tea Tasting Games:
Tea tasting games, were customs practiced during tea tasting sessions. Participants would tell stories, recite poems, or compose verses related to tea, adding to the enjoyment and interest, much like drinking games.
- Tea Art Performances:
Tea art performances, also known as "tea play," were popular in the Song Dynasty. This involved the skillful pouring of brewed tea into a bowl. Tea art was not just a casual tea-drinking activity but was considered on par with playing musical instruments, chess, or calligraphy, highly regarded by scholars and officials. Tea art could instantly display beautiful and varied patterns in the froth, resembling landscapes, flowers, birds, or insects, akin to ink paintings. This required a high level of tea brewing skill.
