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The history of Beijingers' love for tea is long and rich. In the ancient city of Beijing, there was a saying: "Seven daily necessities upon opening the door: firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, and tea." This simple phrase highlights the importance of tea in the lives of Beijingers, making it an indispensable part of their daily life. The reason behind this can be traced back to historical developments.
As the capital of six dynasties, Beijing has long been a political and cultural center in China. Tea, serving as both a national drink and a livelihood necessity, mirrored the society, customs, and traditions of the time. While tea was a beloved daily beverage, it also held extraordinary significance in the hearts of Beijingers. The custom of drinking tea, originating from the south where tea is produced and appreciated, spread northward across the country. Since the north didn't produce tea and had limited regions where tea could be grown, it had to be purchased from the south. Due to historical transportation constraints, tea remained a rare and valuable commodity in the north until the late Qing Dynasty, affordable only to the affluent.
By the mid-Qing Dynasty, major tea merchants from southern tea-producing regions like Anhui, Fujian, and Zhejiang had established tea markets in Beijing. They targeted Beijing's political centrality and its dense urban population, introducing Beijingers to tea and fostering a love for it. "Traditional Beijingers" were accustomed to starting their day with a cup of tea, ensuring a comfortable day ahead.
Tea drinking reflects the leisurely lifestyle of old Beijing. Common greetings like "Have you eaten?" or "Have you had tea?" highlight the ingrained habit of morning tea in Beijingers' lives. An old saying, "Thirst won't kill the East City, hunger won't kill the West City," indicates that Beijingers always had access to morning tea. Some elders would have tea first thing in the morning before breakfast.
Tea drinking in Beijing transcends social status, gender, and age, with each having their own way of enjoying it.
The first and most basic way to drink tea was to quench thirst. This involved brewing a special tea in a large bowl or serving it in a covered bowl for passersby to drink. This tea, known as "big bowl tea," was eagerly gulped down by Beijingers whenever they encountered it, whether on business trips, park visits, or shopping excursions.
The second way is more refined, focusing on the quality of tea leaves, water, tea ware, and the brewing method. Beijing boasted large tea shops offering a variety of teas, including flower tea, green tea, oolong tea, Yunnan pu'er tea, brick tea favored by Mongolians and Tibetans, and even foreign teas. Connoisseurs would purchase tea leaves and savor them at home, making tea drinking an elegant cultural pursuit often shared with friends, despite its high cost.
The third way is a mix of practicality and appreciation. Most Beijingers drank tea in a way that was neither as casual as the first method nor as sophisticated as the second. Regardless of economic conditions, they would find a way to enjoy tea. Many retained the habit of brewing a pot of "gaomo" (ground jasmine tea) first thing in the morning, drinking it to satisfaction before having breakfast and heading to work. This daily ritual led to the emergence of teahouses as a significant aspect of Beijing's regional culture.
In the Ming Dynasty, tea-drinking establishments in Beijing were known as "tea pavilions" or "tea houses." When the Manchus took over, these tea establishments were converted into leisure spots for the Banner soldiers, collectively known as "teahouses." There were 24 such teahouses, mostly run by Manchus with Han Chinese as workers. Unlike previous tea pavilions, these teahouses used large copper kettles known as "water and fire kettles," which heated water and fire within the same vessel.
The prosperity of teahouses during the Qing Dynasty was attributed to economic growth and the patronage of wealthy Bannermen. Another crucial factor was the innovative business model of Qing Dynasty teahouses, which, as Wang Di noted, resembled Western coffee houses, hotels, and salons. While relaxation was a primary attraction, teahouses also served as venues for various social activities. In these small spaces, cultural exchanges among different social classes, ethnic groups, and regions ultimately shaped the urban culture of modern Beijing.
