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When discussing the greatest tea master in Chinese history, none can surpass Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty.
First, he was the first emperor to personally prepare tea for his ministers. As recorded in Cai Jing's "Records of the Taiqing Pavilion Banquet": "Then, he personally prepared tea in the western pavilion and served it to his attendants."
Second, he was the first emperor to author a tea monograph under the imperial name. The "Treatise on Tea," written during the first year of the Daguan era, later known as the "Daguan Tea Treatise," is arguably the most important book on tea from the Song Dynasty, especially regarding the practice of tea whisking.
These two points alone place Emperor Huizong above any other tea connoisseur in history. Although emperors Kangxi and Qianlong also loved tea—Qianlong even needed tea daily and abdicated the throne in favor of it—their expertise in tea studies pales in comparison to Huizong.
The "Daguan Tea Treatise" consists of twenty sections, totaling fewer than 3,000 characters. Its language is exceptionally concise, detailing the origins, production, brewing techniques, quality, and tea competition customs of steamed green tea cakes from the Northern Song Dynasty. The insights are remarkably unique.
In the preface of his book, Huizong describes tea drinking as an endeavor for the "virtuous and pure-minded," a refined pastime for leisure. From nobles to common folk, everyone enjoys tea, appreciating its elegance and tranquility.
A Unique Love for White Tea
Huizong believed that white tea was the finest, "incomparable to any other." He detailed the best times and methods for picking tea: "Pick tea at dawn and stop before sunrise. A bud with one leaf is top-grade, a bud with two leaves is second-grade, and anything else is inferior."
A Passion for Tea Utensils
Discussing tea cups, Huizong praised the black-glazed Jianzhan ware with hare's fur patterns as the best for whisking and competing in tea. The teapot for whisking tea should be made of gold or silver, with the size and shape tailored to specific needs.
Meticulous About Water Quality
Huizong's standards for water align with those of Lu Yu in the "Classic of Tea": "Clear, light, sweet, and clean water is ideal, preferably from mountain springs, or otherwise from frequently drawn well water."
Mastery in Brewing Techniques
The "Seven Brews Method" in the "Daguan Tea Treatise" is the most brilliant part, detailing the techniques for whisking tea with precision. Huizong emphasized the importance of the right water temperature, whisking technique, and the subtle interplay of tea and water. Each stage of the process is meticulously described, showcasing his deep understanding of tea.
On the essence of tea, Huizong stated: "Taste is paramount. Tea should be fragrant, sweet, rich, and smooth. The true fragrance of tea cannot be compared to any incense." He also emphasized the quality of tea foam, with pure white being the best, followed by blue-white, gray-white, and yellow-white.
Every time one reads the "Daguan Tea Treatise," it's hard not to reflect on Huizong's profound understanding of tea, surpassing even the great Northern Song literary figure Su Dongpo. Despite being an emperor, the treatise lacks any imperial arrogance, instead reflecting the wisdom of a true tea master. Isolated in the imperial palace, without the camaraderie of tea gatherings with Su Dongpo or Lu You, and without borrowing ideas from tea competitions with Fan Zhongyan or Wang Anshi, Huizong produced a work of exceptional insight and unique perspectives on tea utensils. Such dedication and artistic talent are rare and remarkable.
He is, undoubtedly, China's top tea master.
